TREE PEONIES: Tree peony plants come in a wide range of sizes, predominantly determined by the age of the plant, and are either grafted or on their own root. Peony's Envy sells a wide range of ages and types of tree peonies - our current stock is dependant on availablity so please note the description on the tree peony page to make sure you know what age tree peony you are buying. The pricing of tree peonies will also reflect the age, with smaller younger plants being priced less that larger more mature specimines.

Healthy tree peonies consist of 1 to 5 woody stems on a strong root system. Grafted peonies consist of a tree peony stem that is grafted on to a herbaceous nurse root. Peonies that are not grafted are on their own root. This means that the entire plant is true to cultivar and will create new growth from both the roots and the base of the plant. Extra care should be taken with grafted peonies to promote the growth of the tree peony root.

Site Selection - Where to Plant

HERBACEOUS & INTERSECTIONAL SITE SELECTION: First, consider the amount of sun. The more sun an herbaceous or intersectional peony has, the better it will grow. Planted in less than full sun, it will take longer to mature and flower.  Full flower forms like rose and crown hold up well in hot afternoon sun, while lighter flowers forms like single and anemone need protection from hot afternoon sun. See guide to shapes and colors for help in selecting which cultivars best suit your garden.

Second, consider soil conditions. Peonies tolerate a wide range of soil conditions. Ideally, you want a neutral to slightly alkaline soil that has good drainage and high organic content. Peonies planted in clay soil, amended to ensure good drainage, take longer to become established but produce beautiful flowers for generations as clay soil retains nutrition.  Peonies planted in sandy soil take less time to become established but can produce less striking plants as nutrients easily leech out of the soil. If planting in sandy soil, amend with clay and compost and top dress several times a year with compost to renew the soil. Be cautious when top dressing as this can increase the depth of your plants and plants that are too deep will not flower, see the planting section for details.

Regardless of soil conditions, peonies need soil that drains, as they cannot tolerate wet feet. 

TREE SITE SELECTION: First, consider placement. Tree peonies should be planted where there is little competition from other large trees or shrubs. Give your plant a good 3 to 5 feet of space. Dwarf varieties will require less space; mid and tall varieties more. Remember that your plant is slow growing and will take time to fill in this space but plan accordingly as tree peonies do not like to be moved.

Forth, extraneous factors. If you live in a location prone to heavy winds, consider planting your tree peony near a windbreak. If your area is prone to heavy snows consider planting your tree peony away from eves or plow lines to protect the tree peony from heavy downfalls of snow that can break the branches. If you want to try growing tree peonies horticultural zones 2 or 3, a tree peonies will have substantial die back and will grow more like an herbaceous peony, sprouting from the base every year. In these zones mulch heavily in winter. In zones 4-9 tree peonies need no winter protection as they are cold hardy and resilient.

If you have clay soils you will need to amend for drainage. A good solution is to mix compost and rock dust into your soil. Rock dust can be obtained from a neighborhood quarry. Gypsum, a type of rock dust, can be obtained commercially from garden centers. In addition to drainage, rock dust has the benefit of adding micro-nutrients to the soil.

If you have sandy soil amend with clay and compost to increase the retention of nutrients.

Peonies tolerate a wide pH but prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil, a pH to 6.5 - 7.5. If you are unsure of your soil condition or pH, you may want to get a soil test from your county’s agricultural extension service.

Amending the soil is particularly important for tree peonies. Below are pictures of how we plant tree peonies in New Jersey. We have heavy soil made up of clay and rock. We create a nutrient rich, highly draining, soil mixture for the bottom of the hole. This consists of three parts compost, two parts stone dust, and one part dirt from the hole. For the top of the hole, surrounding the peony root itself, we create a mixture of equal parts compost, stone dust, and dirt from the hole. This produces a friable loam that is excellent for growing tree peonies.

HERBACEOUS & INTERSECTIONAL PLANTING DEPTH: Plant so that 0.5 to 1.5 inches of soil cover the top of the root - peonies should be planted deeper in lower numbered zones and more shallow in higher numbered zones. For example, most of Virginia will plant peonies at .5 inch, northern New Jersey will plant at 1 inch, and Maine will plant at 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. Planted too deeply flowers will not develop, too shallowly and the tops of the eyes will freeze and die back in the winter.

Press down on the soil to remove air pockets in the soil around the root and lift the root as necessary so it does not settle more than 1.5 inches beneath the ground. Water in well. Avoid mulching your herbaceous & intersectional peonies as this will insulate them and they may not flower.

During the first two growing seasons after planting a new herbaceous or intersectional peony, ensure that it gets a good soaking every two to three weeks. This will allow the plant to get enough water while the fibrous root system becomes established. Remember that peonies do not like wet feet and be careful to not over water, the soil needs to dry out fully between watering.

HERBACEOUS SPACING:

For more information on planning a garden and spacing multiple peonies see page on Peony Garden Planning.

TREE PLANTING DEPTH: Tree peonies should be planted deeply. Grafted tree peonies should be planted so that the graft is four to six inches below the surface of the soil. This deep planting forces dieback of the nurse herbaceous root and successful growth of a tree peony root. Any herbaceous shoots noticed growing from any grafted tree peony should be cut back and the plant should be mulched to more deeply bury the root.Tree peonies growing from their own root should be planted so that the point at which the stems emmerge from the root is two inches below the surface of the soil, see image below. This will promote additional branches to emerge from the root.

PLANTING tree peonies on their own root VS grafted tree peonies:

What to Expect - Yearly Growth
Peonies, like most perennials, take three years to become fully established in your garden. They follow the well known truisms - first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap - or first year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers. You will see some flowers before the third year, but it takes three springs before the plant has a mature and stately presence and is consistently true to flower form. Peonies can live for decades in one place without needing to be moved or thinned.

HERBACEOUS GROWTH:

The images above are of a tree peony on it's own root. PLEASE NOTE that 2nd year grafted tree peonies will take longer to mature as they are smaller plants to begin with. Although many 4th year tree peonies will flower in their first year some may not. To promote the best root growth any buds should be removed the first year.

Flowers on tree and herbaceous peonies are not typically true to form in their first years of blooming. Flowers will take on their more characteristic form once the plant has matured.

The roots on tree peonies grow large. This is the reason for digging a large hole the first year.

Fertilizing Peonies
Peonies typically thrive with neglect and therefore need little fertilization.  First consider the environment.  Is a chemical fertilizer necessary? If so choose a balanced slow-release one like 5-5-5 or 10-10-10. Rarely, do we use chemical fertilizers at Peony’s Envy. Instead, we compost all the time.

We spread 120 to 180 cubic yards of mushroom compost on the gardens every year. Hy-Tech Mushroom is a company in Pennsylvania that has the very best compost.

We use Neptune’s Harvest™ fish and seaweed emulsion by the gallon both as a foliar spray when leaves are emerging and as a root drench both when planting and during fall cleanup. Other options for fertilizer are well-decomposed compost, bone meal (be wary if you have digging dogs or raccoons), bulb tone, or rock dust. When applying compost be careful not to a thick layer as this could increase the planting depth and reduce blooming. The best way to apply compost is by mixing it in a ring around the peony.

Watering
During the first two growing seasons after planting a new peony, ensure that it gets a good soaking once a week. Water more in times of drought than in times of heavy rains, and more if your peony is planted in full sun than in dappled shade. Monitor water intake carefully especially in tree peonies the first year after planting. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system.  However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet and be careful to not over water, watering daily or use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is essential that your peony be planted in well draining soil so that the water does not pool around the plant.

Deadheading Peonies & Peony Cultivation

After the bloom, unless you are interested in seeing if your peony will produce seeds, deadhead your peonies to promote root growth over seed formation.

HERBACEOUS & INTERSECTIONAL DEADHEADING: Cut the stem to the first set of true leaves.

TREE DEADHEADING: Cut the stem just below the spent flower. Removing excess stem will reduce the amount of growth in the following year and should be avoided. This years green shoots will become next years woody branch.

SEED COLLECTING: If you are interested in collecting seeds, wait to see if a seedpod begins to form as in the first picture below. Seeds will ripen and be ready to plant in early fall. Note that not all peonies can produce seeds as the stamens have been diminished or lost in the hybridization process. If a peony is not able to produce seeds, the stem will not produce a seedpod and will look like picture two. In this case cut the stem back to the first set of true leaves. Note that to get a peony the same as another you currently grow, you must divide the root. If you are lucky enough however to have a variety of peony that produces seeds, the seeds will produce peonies distinct from the parent. Plant the seeds one inch below the surface of the soil immediately when they ripen-like picture three. Plant them outside in similar conditions favored by the mother plants. Mark them well and wait. It may take two years for a seeding to emerge and as many as ten years for the plants to produce flowers.

Fall Care

Additional fall care consists of cleaning up the area around the peony and adding compost six inches from the base of the stem. Compost should not be piled directly on the peony as any layered soil will make the peony too deep and may keep it from flowering in coming years. Carefully check the surface around the stem to ensure the pink or white eyes remain 0.5 to 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil depending on your horticultural zone. If desired, add fish and seaweed emulsion, bone meal or a slow release fall fertilizer according to package directions to give your plants a little boost for fall.

TREE FALL CARE: Tree peonies are very cold tolerant. Notice in the image below where the leaves in the forest have all but dropped and yet the tree peonies are still holding their leaves. Leaves should be left to fall on their own as this years green shoots become next years woody branches. Tree peonies display a wide array of fall color in the garden. Once the leaves naturally fall winter preparation consists of cleaning all leaves from the base of the stem and thrown away.

Compost can be added seasonally to tree peonies, we apply a ring of mushroom compost around the plant in the fall. If desired, add fish and seaweed emulsion, bone meal or a slow release fall fertilizer according to package directions to give your plants an extra boost for fall.

Tree peonies generally do not need to be protected from the winter elements. They, like herbaceous peonies, need the cold to flower. Care should be taken to not break the branches over the winter so be wary of extremely heavy snowfall or areas that are susceptible to high winter winds.

Diseases/Insects

To prevent disease make sure your garden is kept clean, that air circulates, and that plants are kept healthy. Messenger™ and Neptune’s Harvest™ are two organic products to keep your plants healthy and disease resistant.

POWDERY MILDEW: Leaves turn white. Onset is in late June through September.  It is not fatal and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous peonies to this fungus. In some years powdery mildew is worse than others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected there are virtually no sprays or oils that will rid the plant of powdery mildew this year. However there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew. These include the following: Bacillus subtilis to boost plant’s natural defenses, neem oil or other horticultural oils, backing soda spray (1t backing soda, 1qt. water and a few drops of liquid soap), products containing sulfur, or a biofungicide recommended to treat powdery mildew on peonies, rhubarb leaf tea, cornmeal as a soil amendment or mixed as a spray. All pesticides should be used according to package directions and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large scale applications. The cooperative extension service in New Jersey recommends potassium bicarbonate at 7-10 day intervals.

BOTRYTIS: Young stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is in early spring when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis will kill tree and herbaceous peonies if not treated. Botrytis thrives in cool humid conditions and can be minimized by planting peonies where they have good air circulation. When noticed, cut off diseased portions of the plant, dipping the pruners in a 10% solution of bleach between each cutting to ensure the disease does not spread. Throw out the diseased portions; do not compost. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Griffin Greenhouse Supply recommends products including Cease, Daconil, Medallion, and Veranda-O.  Follow all instructions on the label and trial pesticides on small portions of the plant before making large scale applications.

VARIOUS FUNGI/DISEASES: There are several diseases that can cause blotches on the leaves or cause the plant to turn black, wilt and portions to die. When in doubt, send a sample to your county’s agricultural extension office for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. But in general peonies are disease resistant and require very little care.

ANTS: - We have heard for generations that ants are necessary for peonies to flower. This is not true. The ants are simply attracted to the nectar on the buds. Ants keep the garden clean of other pests and will not hurt the flowers or the leaves. To prevent bringing in ants when you cut your peony flowers cut them when they are a tight bud and the ants can be easily shaken off. This also increases the longevity of your cut flowers as they open more slowly in the cool of your house than the heat of the outdoors. For detailed information on ants and cut flowers watch Kathleen's Martha Stewart Clip.

CHAFER BETLES: Peony flowers being eaten. Chafers are beetles look similar to Japanese beetles. They can be removed by hand or killed with almost any insecticide. Neem oil is an organic option, read the product label for more detailed instructions.

Peonies Not Blooming?
HERBACEOUS: If you have old established peonies that have beautiful green leaves and no flowers it is often a problem with planting depth. This can be due to a number of reasons such as years of mulching or shift in the garden. To check the depth of your peony carefully move the soil from the top portion of the plant being careful not to break off the delicate pink eyes. The top of the root should be from 0.5 to 1.5 inches below the surface of the soil. For details on planting depth see the Planting section above. Another possibility that should not be ruled out is amount of sunlight. Over time surrounding trees and shrubs can shade out your peonies resulting in fewer and fewer flowers.

If the overall health of your plant is declining check planting depth, the amount of water, competition of roots, depletion of nutrients in the soil, etc. It may be time to transplant your peony. Divide it when you transplant it following instructions below. Plant divided roots in a new section of the garden so the soil in the former location can recover.

TREE: It is less common to have tree peonies that do not bloom but occasionally this is simply a product of immaturity and will self correct as the plant becomes larger. Many other suppliers sell very small tree peonies and these can take five years or more to bloom. If you have more mature tree peonies that are not blooming you should first check the depth of the plant and make sure that it is buried sufficiently and the roots are not exposed, causing stress on the plant. If you have a very mature tree peony that has begun to bloom less this could be to surrounding root and sun competition.

TREE BLOOMS TWICE: If you are getting two sets of blooms on your tree peony, one early and one a few weeks later, you have a grafted tree peony and the herbaceous root stock is flowering after the tree has flowered. This is something that should be prevented as it could stress your tree peony. In this case you should cut back the herbaceous stems emerging from the base and mulch the plant in deeper.

Cut Flowers

HERBACEOUS & INTERSECTIONAL CUT FLOWERS: Click here to watch Peony's Envy on The Martha Stewart Show for a VIDEO on how to cut and store your herbaceous peonies.

When to Cut
If you are wanting to use your peonies as cut flowers, cut the buds when they are hard like marbles but have begun to show color, like the picture above to the left. Bringing the flowers inside at this point allows them to open at a slower rate as they are opening in the cool of your house instead of the heat of the garden.

Ants
If you are worried about ants when bringing cut flowers into the house simply cut the flowers when the buds are still closed making the ants are easy to shake off. Also, if you cut your flowers in the evening, there are often fewer ants on the buds.

How to Save
To preserve your herbaceous flowers for weeks after their bloom time simply cut them in the stage stated above and store them in the refrigerator. They can be stored in a vase with water, protected by a flower sleeve, for up to six months if you continually change out the water. They can also be stored in the refrigerator without water, placed on their side, wrapped in newspaper for a few weeks. They will rehydrate when placed in water.
On both of these methods, watch for any mold or fungus and remove these portions as soon as they are spotted. Note that peonies stored for a long period of time will open faster and not last as long. It takes practice to store peonies successfully so try it this year and see how long you can keep your peonies. Click here to watch Peony's Envy on The Martha Stewart Show for a VIDEO on how to cut and store your herbaceous peonies.

TREE CUT FLOWERS: Tree peonies can have flowers as large as dinner plates. Stems should be cut short, less than two inches, to avoid cutting off what will become next year's woody stem and flowers. They can be floated in large glass vases and bowls making an incredible statement on any table.

Transplanting Peonies
If you are lucky enough to have mature peonies in your garden and they are blooming beautifully first consider leaving them where they are as peonies will sulk for a year or two after they are transplanted. If transplanting is inevitable the time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant. If you are in a crunch herbaceous peonies can be transplanted successfully at other times of the year but it is not recommended.

Before you start digging up your peony it is important to prepare the new location as mentioned above in the Planting section.

HERBACEOUS TRANSPLANTING: When digging your herbaceous peony in the fall begin by cutting back the stems as you would do in fall cleanup. If you want to divide the peony before replanting, which is recommended, count the stems before digging. Plan ahead and pre-dig your holes, know that for every five stems you can have one new peony. See details on dividing below. Once this is done, lift your established herbaceous peony using a large garden fork and begin at least eight inches from the base of the stem. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it from the ground.  The roots are brittle and can easily be broken. The peony can either be planted as is, or can be divided into several parts. Any time peonies are transplanted or divided, they take a few years to return to their previous grandeur. See details above on re-planting and details below on dividing.

TREE TRANSPLANTING: The time to do this is in the fall when the plants have become dormant. To lift your established tree peony, begin at least eighteen inches from the base of the stem, loosen the plant from the soil with a large garden fork, work your way around the plant, and gently pry it from the ground.  The roots will be deep and tough. Have burlap ready to help secure the root ball. Cut off any remaining leaves being careful not to remove what will become next years woody stem. Plant immediately and water in well. Note that when moving a tree peony it will take several years for it to return to its previous health.

Dividing Peonies

HERBACEOUS DIVIDING: When dividing an herbaceous peony, wash the dirt off of the roots. The root has four parts: large tuberous roots, small fibrous roots, a connective crown and eyes at the top of the crown. Rinse off the peony so you can see the plant clearly. Divide the plant into pieces by carefully cutting through the crown, as shown in the picture below. Each piece should have at least one strong tuberous root and 3-5 eyes in the top of the crown. Plant each herbaceous peony 3 feet apart, according to the Planting Instructions above.